The idea isn’t to make feminist clothes per se but to cater to a world in which women can have what they want – clothes that allow women to indulge in fantasy (fringe, funny necklaces, dresses that reveal an unexpected snatch of skin) grounded in the pragmatism that a modern woman’s life demands. Burch and Sui’s ability to perfect that mix explains why both brands, in business for decades and still independent, are undergoing something of a renaissance. Burch showed rich tapestry opera coats with coordinating heels, beaded secretary sweaters with high-slit pencil skirts and grandpa’s snuggly cords and sweaters done with a more luxurious, indulgent hand. Putting women first is the heart of her brand: “I started my company because I wanted to help women,” she said. “I think women are very much the answer for what’s happening in our world today.”
Sui’s more fantastical collection, with fur-trimmed brocades, slips and bustles under fur wraps and little pink plaid suits, is the sort of thing women pore over for ideas – for getting dressed, going vintage shopping or even what movies or music to obsess over next. “It’s kind of mind-boggling that I’m getting maybe even more attention now than I did when I started, and throughout my career,” said Sui the day before her show.
Multiple generations of women find Sui’s approach, of unearthing and sharing treasures, inspiring: “What I love about fashion is that discovery,” she said. “This is what I love about going to flea markets and finding something I’ve never seen before – being able to show it off. I think there’s that quality of me wanting everybody else to get the message.”
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